Most Mira Recap

How do I sum up a week spent volunteering at the Most Mira festival, an arts festival for kids in NW Bosnia to promote peace by teaching children to play and create together? Well, I can tell you now, inadequately. But I'll try here with a 3 pronged approach. Prong #1 - the Kids: Kids are kids the world over. They like to laugh, to play, and the circus*. The fact that we didn't share a common language* didn't stop them from learning just about every trick I could remember in my diabolo workshop. Gestures, high-fives, smiles, and a universal "bravo" go a long way. And at the end of the week, what a better way to celebrate new skillz learned, friendships formed, and smiles had than by putting on a show under the big top. (Oh, and it wasn't just kids that like to learn and play...) Prong #2 - the People: One of the things that made Most Mira so wonderful was the other volunteers I got know. How often is it that in a single day, one can have a meaningful conversation about European politics, get a lecture on the gypsy language Romani*, give an impromptu clown/juggling performance with a perfect stranger, watch more hands than necessary go up for any task that needed to be done (no matter how unpleasant), and fall asleep to amazing drum music? Well, at Most Mira, that was pretty much every day. Prong #3 - Bonuses: Outside of the magic of the festival, there were all sorts of hidden bonuses. Just one example: we got to attend a performance of traditional folk dance/music as the guests of honor (where, among others, I ended up on stage doing a club passing routine with some of my clowny friends). See? A totally inadequate summary. But fitting an experience that big into just a few words is just downright impossible. I guess to get the full story, you'll just have to ask me about it sometime. I'm happy to share!

Sunday May 22 2011

File under: Balkans, circus

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on Mon 23rd May, 2011 04:34 am PDT Horge said: Who's the suit? ************************

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Peace Through Circus

What happens when you get a mix of people who speak Romanian, English, French, and Serbo-Croatian* all trying to put up a circus tent together? Well, the tent gets put up all the same and we all get to know each other a bit better. Oh, and we all have a dry place to juggle!* Did I mention that I'm in NW Bosnia volunteering with a circus at an arts festival to promote peace between the strongly divided communities of children here. (Clever segue, eh?) The festival is called Most Mira* and it is pretty awesome concept. In a country where people seem to dislike people only because of their religion or which alphabet they seem to prefer (which, if you recall, led to some rather extreme nastiness back in the 90s), focusing on teaching the children that we all like to play, create art, make music, and dance and building friendships between them before the hatred is too ingrained seems like a pretty good idea to me. I feel infinitely lucky that I've found my way here, to help out and experience the magic in person. Plus, any place where I can juggle 4 hours a day (shoeless and shirtless no less) and not be out of place is a place for me!

Sunday May 15 2011

File under: Balkans, circus

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on Mon 16th May, 2011 07:05 am PDT Horge said: Shoeless is all well and good, but watch out for "biological landmines". I found that I had some stuck on the bottom of my boot from yesterday's disc-session... ************************

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Ask a Vela Lukan

I'm here in Vela Luka, Croatia, another sister city to my home town of Anacortes. (Previous coverage on sister cities here.) I thought what better way to find out about the town than to take to the streets. Special thanks to Horge for acting as translator, photographer, and motivator! What do you like best about Vela Luka? Healthy living and there are good jobs here. ~Svjetislav, parks maintenance worker It's not so touristy here. Just a real town with real life. ~Lynny, bike trip leader I dunno. I guess I'm used to it and my friends are here. ~Ivan, waiter The sea and the sun. ~Andres, parks maintenance worker

Wednesday May 11 2011

File under: travel, Balkans

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on Thu 12th May, 2011 09:34 am PDT Mom said: Did you ask anyone if they knew the whereabouts of Anacortes? ************************ on Thu 12th May, 2011 03:36 pm PDT rus said: how come no pic of jorge? ************************ on Sat 14th May, 2011 03:29 am PDT Horge said: Nice formatting. ************************ on Sat 21st May, 2011 10:46 am PDT Amiel Martin said: Hey, my neighbor down here in the marina is from Croatia. ************************

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Dubrovnik the Exclave

Dubrovnik, Croatia is geographically very interesting. To get to Dubrovnik from any other part of Croatia, you have to drive through Bosnia (albeit a span of about 10 kilometers). That chunk of land is detached from the rest of the country, much in the same way Alaska is detached from the lower 48*. These separated chunks, I learned, are called exclaves. In the case of Dubrovnik, it is a pene-exclave because theoretically, you could take a boat, without leaving Croatian waters, there. This geographic anomaly, which is somewhat rare, is something I've always wondered about. Now I've got a name for it. How many exclaves can you think of? Speaking of Dubrovnik, it's awesome. Narrow [carless] streets, wonderful architecture, sculptures, churches, and more. To wander through the town, grabbing a slice of pizza or and scoop of ice cream, discovering all the back alleys was my main activity. But I also got out for a hike up to a geocache (while tempted, we did not take the cable car), checked out some of the parks, and plotted how my visit will go next time I come back to Dubrovnik. Yes, folks, it is just that awesome. Fun and learning—all and all, not a bad way to spend a couple of days*.

Tuesday May 10 2011

File under: travel, Balkans

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The Old Bridge of Mostar

What would you put on the cover of a guidebook for your town? A scenic landscape or cityscape? A person that embodies the locals? Or maybe a famous building, bridge, or statue? Well, in the case of Mostar, Bosnia, there is no question. The image that represents the city, and possibly even the nation, is the Old Bridge. It is the icon of Mostar. And what, as a tourist, do you do when you see the icon of a place? Take pictures of course! But you can only have so many pictures of a thing. So sometimes you've gotta get a little creative and throw in a little variety. I present that variety thusly. (We're having a great time. Having a travel buddy is wonderful. Hopefully a more comprehensive blog post coming soon.)

Saturday May 7 2011

File under: travel, Balkans

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Bullet Holes and Blown Out Buildings

I see bullets wizz by on the movie screen often and think little of it. Even hearing the sound of shots* from a distance doesn't really bring the concept of bullets to life. Seeing buildings convered with bullet holes while walking down the street, however, brings that concept that I've been so lucky to avoid in my life into a little bit better perspective. I was a little young to be following the news when the Yugoslavian wars happened (1991-1998*), but the place names have always been laced in my mind with some of that subtext. But now, while traveling the streets of some of the cities involved (Sarajevo and Mostar, Bosnia), that general vague sense of what went down now has come into much clearer view. I'm fortunate enough to be traveling with my friend Horge who graciously acts as tour guide and historian explaining who was on which side fighting for what*, pointing out blown out building after blown out building and other little reminders, etc. While it is not the kind of sightseeing I usually do, I'm glad I'm getting this perspective, getting to see this destruction that has had such a huge impact on this area in the so recent past.

Wednesday May 4 2011

File under: travel, Balkans

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on Wed 04th May, 2011 03:53 pm PDT Amanda said: Wren, have so enjoyed your updates/thoughts/contemplations while on your adventure. I am, however, wildly jealous. ************************ on Thu 05th May, 2011 08:40 am PDT Mom said: Moving pictures. I can't help but wonder if we are leaving a similar trail in the Middle East. George, why is the "Don't Forget" reminder on the stone in English? ************************ on Sat 14th May, 2011 03:39 am PDT Horge said: I'd guess that sign being in English is a reminder to all the many foreigners coming to visit Mostar about the West's strong role in how things played out. There's a general feeling here (especially among the Bosniak Muslims) that the West could've stopped the war anytime, but instead let things spin out of control by tying Bosnia's hands behind its back with an arms embargo on them only, but not Serbia or Croatia. So a bit of reminding foreigners that though an internal Yugoslav conflict, Western apathy contributed... <- my 2 cents ************************

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Different but Same Same

In travel, much attention is paid to that which is unique and different. Or maybe it's the best, biggest, or oldest that guide books tout and travelers flock to. While this side of travel is something I enjoy*, the other side of the traveling can be just as powerful. At their true core, I assert that there are more similarities between the towns and cities of this world than differences. I was reminded of this thought* while wandering around Nikšić*, Montenegro on another "since-you're-gong-to-be-in-________,-will-you-please-_______" mission*. Like all cities of its size, it has places where people go to gather, to recreate, to pray, to buy stuff, and to eat. People nod at you when you pass by, people play with their children in the park, and people sip coffee in sidewalk cafes. If it weren't for the signs being in a different language, you might mistake Nikšić for a city in any number of countries around the world. This is not to say, however, that Nikšić is without its charm or notable features. If it were featured in a guide book*, the vast town square with its giant guy-on-horse statue would undoubtedly be mentioned. Also, its pleasant, much treed park would be called out. "A warm summer evening's dinner in a Nikšić street cafe is enough to ease the most stressed day," the guide book blurb might say. These core samenesses that I see everywhere I go are a comfort, a reminder of the oneness of the people of this world as much as the star attractions are a reminder of the incredible diversity. Three cheers for travel! @Ma: I took more pictures of Niksic for your friend and can either e-mail them home or bring 'em when I come.

Monday May 2 2011

File under: travel, Balkans

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on Tue 03rd May, 2011 08:57 am PDT Mom said: Thanks, Buddy, Marie will be thrilled. ************************

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Just Passing Through

A quick glance at my Sleeping Around calendar shows that I've been on the move the past couple days. Normally, I like to stay in a town for a day or three. It allows me to get to know a place a little, unpack my bag, and spend at least a day not on a bus, boat, or train. But due to circumstances, I'm currently in the midst of the opposite—moving cities and countries on a daily (sometimes less) basis. Though I usually prefer the slower schedule, the harried pace has its advantages too. I'm seeing some really neat stuff and taking notes for places I need to be sure and come back to*. Plus, the old passport is getting filled up mighty quickly. Today alone I passed through 3 countries*. Come Monday*, I'll settle the schedule back down a bit and spend 3 weeks or so between Croatia and Bosnia, enough to at least learn "thank you" and "hello" in the respective languages. But for now, I'll just settle in for the ride and watch the countries roll by.

Saturday April 30 2011

File under: travel, Balkans

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on Sat 30th Apr, 2011 08:39 am PDT Horge said: Can't wait! :-D (btw, your 2 desired expressions are the same as in Montenegro, so you can practice up ahead of time, especially with those tough consonant-clusters: hello=zdravo and thanks=hvala) ************************ on Sat 30th Apr, 2011 09:05 am PDT Horge said: And as a pronunciation tip, I should mention that all letters are pronounced, but an alternative to "zrdavo" is the universal "ciao" or "hallo". And "hvala" can blend together to sound like "fall-ah"... Good luck! ************************ on Sun 01st May, 2011 12:17 pm PDT Jena said: Hey ! It's your cousin here....makes sure to have some Cevapi while you are in that neck of the woods....a nummy, nummy Bosnian sandwich. ************************ on Tue 03rd May, 2011 06:52 am PDT Wren said: @Jena: done and done :-) Yummy indeed! ************************

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Athens in 12 Hours

It turns out that 12 hours isn't nearly enough time to see all that Athens, Greece has to offer, esp. when going on only 2 hours of sleep because of a fiasco of an overnight ferry ride*. But as that was the situation I found myself in, I thought I'd give it the old college try. The Acropolis was the first and biggest thing on my agenda. The Parthenon is pretty incredible. Seeing in person the building that is associated with the pinnacle of Greek times, which, in my mind, is linked to the pinnacle of reason* was a moving experience that even the heavy construction and throngs of tourists couldn't fully damper. Another vista at the Acropolis that I've been wanting to see since my high school art history class was the Caryatids, which didn't disappoint. I did my best to see all the other temples/ruins/etc. but I only had so much sightseeing fuel in my tank. It gets like that sometimes—the thought of seeing more ruins just isn't as appealing as, say, a 1 euro milkshake at McDonalds*. So while I did the temple of Zeus (see above), the Acropolis Museum, the changing of the guard at the tomb of the unknown soldier, and a few of the narrow street shopping meccas, I left a few things for the next visit. And I hope there is a next visit. There has to be. The Parthenon will be even more spectacular after the renovation and my traditional jumping picture just didn't turn out*.

Wednesday April 27 2011

File under: travel, Greece

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on Wed 27th Apr, 2011 06:13 pm PDT Stephanie said: I've wanted to see the Caryatids since my high school art class too! Mayhaps next summer... ************************ on Thu 28th Apr, 2011 01:55 am PDT Horge said: I think it probably failed to make the tourist pamphlets, but the changing of the guard might be expensive, but in reality those high kicks and fluffy balls on their shoes do wonders for the upkeep of Athens, letting them dust those hard-to-reach crannies... ************************

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Photographing Greek Islands

On just about every postcard of Greece, every guide book cover—just about every image you seem to see of Greece, the view is almost the same: beautiful white buildings and blue shutters, domes, ocean, and sky. As an excuse to meander aimlessly here on Santorini (one of the most beautiful places on God's green earth), I decided I wanted to take that photo, one worthy of a guide book cover. It turns out that it isn't as easy as you might think. While the picturesque white and blue buildings are everywhere, a combination of my past-its-prime camera and lack of photography skillz made getting a few shots I was really proud of a little tough. But from the oodles I took, a few turned out, which I present to you now. (For full disclosure, I did use Photoshop* to enhance some colors on some photos (just brightness and contrast, etc.). But I'm told that photo people do that all the time anyway. And to be honest, the final product still doesn't come close to capturing the views that are all around.) And just to keep things interesting(/boring for some of you), I had to get the random self-shots in as well. It wouldn't be a BdW travel post without a goofy arm-length self-shot.

Saturday April 23 2011

File under: travel, Greece

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on Sat 23rd Apr, 2011 01:09 pm PDT Juline said: Awesome. The self-portraits are always great. You must have quite an album. But in the above four shots, #1 is my fave. ************************ on Sun 24th Apr, 2011 08:13 am PDT Horge said: Happy Easter Wren (and BdW-ophiles who celebrate it)! I'm curious if you happened upon any curious Easter traditions in Greece today, or maybe even in the build-up to today? ************************ on Sun 24th Apr, 2011 11:41 am PDT EMoore said: truly gorgeous ************************ on Mon 25th Apr, 2011 08:21 pm PDT Mark said: I may have some similar shots from the early 90's when I was there. Glad to know somebody's been soaking up some sun while we endure even more rain. On the bright side, Ultimate begins soon! ************************

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